Saturday - Pons-Mirambeau
The interest in Pons for pilgrims lies on the way out of town, where you pass firstly a modern pilgrim sculpture, set rather incongruously on a roundabout, and then the famous C12 pilgrim hostel, where the route passes under the vaulted arch and where the large hall is being restored - perhaps some pilgrim accommodation here in future?
Again, the route shadows the main road, but the tracks aren’t nearly as conveniently placed as the previous section, and the rather zigzagging GR at 32.5km officially is considerably longer than the road at 23km. Also more tarmac than the previous section, but still lots of nice grassy tracks, and one nice bit through woodland with lilies of some sort just coming into bloom. One short section was waymarked as a GR besides the departmental plinths.
Went into the village of St Genis for refreshments, but not a great deal in the way of facilities en route. Not much of historical interest either, apart from the chateau at the former abbey of La Tenaille, which looked unoccupied with the large domaine all overgrown.
Further on, a young couple driving out of their house offered me water if I needed it; as the day was cool, I didn’t, but the offer was appreciated.
Arrived mid-afternoon in Mirambeau, past a very grand (and very expensive) **** hotel in the chateau on the hill, and then pondered where to spend the night. There is a tourist office, but it was closed. There are 2 ** hotels, one of which was closed and the other right on the main road; there are also a couple of chambres d’hôte, and I opted for one in a manoir: not a cheap option at €80 for B&B. A typical old-fashioned large room with high ceiling and antique furniture, but a large modern bathroom. There were also substantial grounds to wander in.
After a bath, took a look at the town, though couldn’t find much of interest. A bar on the main square is run by an English/Scots couple, with a few expats dropping in - though this is not really my scene.
33km