Peter Robins, his website

To see the places mentioned on online OS maps, first click the 'Open map' button, and then click the OS icons in the text. Open map

At the Bardsey end, on the Llŷn Peninsula, this route is reasonably well defined. It is much less clear at the Holywell end. An obvious option for medieval pilgrims would have been the Roman Road (shown on OS maps) west to St Asaph's, Caerhun and over Bwlch y Ddeufaen to the coast. Some may though have taken a more coastal route, using Edward I's road, via Rhuddlan to the river at Conwy. The Roman road continued to Caernarfon; it may have gone via Bangor, and it's likely pilgrims would have made the detour to the monastery/cathedral there.

For the modern traveller, the Roman road E of the Conwy valley is rather dull, being largely main road with little of interest to the pilgrim, apart from St Asaph. The church at Betws yn Rhos ('betws' means 'oratory'), although with an originally circular churchyard, is a Victorian rebuild, 'not universally lauded' according to CPAT. For this reason, my suggestion is two entirely different routes which converge on the Roman road crossing of the hills of Snowdonia.

First, including Gwytherin, where Winefride finished her days. According to John & Rees, there was a tree-lined route from Gwytherin to Holywell via Nantglyn, Henllan and Bodfari. I have no idea of the exact line of this, but suggest a (admittedly circuitous) possibility. A variation on this route would be to take the St Davids route to Llanynys, and then go via Llanrhaeadr (3km) and the path to Denbigh (4km).

Second, a more coastal route, based on the North Wales Path (NWP), a waymarked route from Prestatyn to Bangor. The NWP is used after the 2 routes converge.

After Bangor, a route becomes more and more obvious. We are told there was a paved road from Clynnog to Aberdaron; no doubt this broadly corresponded to the existing main road, though the fact that some churches, such as Llangwnnadl, are not on the modern road indicates that this is not always the case.

1. via Gwytherin from Holywell to Bwlch y Ddeufaen (80km)

a) there is a reasonably obvious direct route to Bodfari via Babell and Caerwys, but I'ld recommend 2 detours, firstly to the C19 Franciscan friary at Pantasaph. Take the path almost opposite Winefride's well and cross the A5026 between Holywell and Holway. Then take one of the numerous paths to Pantasaph, where the monastery has a small shop as well as a retreat centre. The convent over the road with its shrine to St Philomena is now derelict. (3km from Holywell)
b) cross the A55 by either the footpath to the W of the convent or by the road bridge further W, and take paths to Caerwys. The village was a C13 planned borough; the church (CPAT) may predate this. The nearby well at the top of a stream was, like the church, dedicated to St Michael. (4km from Pantasaph)
c) take path W through the woods. The 2nd detour is to Tremeirchion, where St Beuno's well is not marked on OS but is at SJ084724, below (W of) the caves where stone-age tools from BC36,000 have been found - one of the caves is called Ffynnon Beuno. The fact that this well comes out of a head shape leads to speculation it is of Celtic origin. Medieval pilgrims would also have headed for the Holy Rood in the church (CPAT, medieval set among ancient yews) in the village further N; part of the Rood is now in the care of the Jesuit St Beuno's College (retreat centre) further N. (5km from Caerwys)
d) take either the road or the paths via the interestingly named hamlet of Sodom (presumably the A55 is Gomorrah) to Bodfari, where the church is a Victorian rebuild with a perpendicular tower (CPAT). There was a famous well to St Deifar here to the S of the church, now vanished; there's still a well in the pub though - disappointingly, they don't use it to brew. (3km to Tremeirchion)
e) there is a direct path to Henllan, but the somewhat longer route via Denbigh is more interesting, so take the track S past Lleweni Hall (CPAT) to the old parish church of Denbigh at Llanfarchell (aka Whitchurch, though it isn't white nowadays). This splendid medieval church (CPAT) is one of the grandest in N Wales with a fine hammerbeam roof and monuments designed to impress. There are old yews, though little remains of Marcella's well. (5km from Bodfari)
f) to reach the remains of Denbigh's Carmelite friary (CADW), take the path N from the church (past the sewage works), cross the main road, and the road opposite will lead you to it. The impressive castle (CADW) with the remains of the town walls are a good 20 mins walk away but well worth a visit (the parallel path to the S is better for walkers than the main road). (1km from Llanfarchell)
g) take the path via Foxhall to Henllan (CPAT): the most obvious feature of the church is the large detached tower on the hill; there are some old yew trees. The thatched pub is of medieval origin but I know of no pilgrim connections. (6km from Denbigh)
h) paths and lanes to Nantglyn, where the largely Victorian church of St James (CPAT) is most notable for the pulpit actually in a yew tree. (7km from Henllan)
i) there are no obvious direct routes from Nantglyn to Gwytherin, so I'ld recommend taking lanes and paths to Llansannan, where the church is probably of medieval origin though little remains of this (CPAT). (9km from Nantglyn)
j) continue via lanes and paths to Gwytherin, where the most interesting feature of the Victorian church (CPAT, at one time dedicated to St James) is the 4 C5-C6 standing stones lined up in the churchyard. To the S is the site of a former chapel to St Winefride. Somewhere around here will have been the nunnery where Winefride ended her life after her head was rejoined to her body, but there is sadly no trace of this today. (9km from Llansannan)
k) the next question is where to cross the Conwy valley. You could cross the moors to Llanrwst and go down the valley to Caerhun, but my suggestion is to follow the lane and path along the river to Llangernyw, where the medieval church of St Digain (CPAT - see also Wellings) has a very interesting churchyard with 2 C7-C9 pillar-stones and many old yews, including one claimed as the oldest in Wales. (9km from Gwytherin)
l) now follow the lanes to Eglwysbach (the eglwys is an C18 rebuild) and cross the Conwy on the bridge at Tal-y-cafn (rly station). A path leads S along the river bank to the interesting church of Caerhun (ancient yews), set, like that at Holyhead, in the Roman fort; this is most obvious from an aerial photograph, as in e.g. Gregory. (12km from Llangernyw; 10km as far as Tal-y-cafn)
m) take the path up to Llanbedr-y-cennin, where the small church is medieval (more old yews); Ffynnon Bedr, to the S and under a yew, was for infirm children. (2km from Caerhun)
n) from here the lane leads up to the Roman road over Bwlch y Ddeufaen. (5km Llanbedr to the Bwlch)

2. coastal route Holywell to Bwlch y Ddeufaen (77km)

a) leave the same way on the path opposite the well and take the paths that lead N of Holway and Carmel to Ffynnon Oswallt - Oswald's Well. (Note: none of the paths in the immediate vicinity of the well is currently usable.) Continue in the same direction to Whitford - the church (CAPT) is largely a Victorian rebuild but there are several old crosses inside. (5km from Holywell)
b) Take the lane W to Maen Achwyfan (CADW), one of the finest high crosses in Britain. For me, it is no coincidence that this is at the junction of 7 public highways. (2km from Whitford)
c) take lanes and paths to Trelawnyd. At the C18 church (CPAT), see especially the C14 cross in the churchyard. (4km from Maen Achwyfan)
d) from the church, take paths and bridleways W to Dyserth, mainly known for its waterfall, but the medieval church contains some fine stained glass and a fine early Celtic cross (CPAT); there are some old yews in the churchyard. Nearby is Gwyfan's well which, according to Jones, once contained trout. In Dyserth you join the NWP. (4km from Trelawnyd)
e) next stop is Rhuddlan and between the two, in the grounds of Bodrhyddan Hall, is a well of St Mary, Ffynnon Fair, with an octagonal cover reputedly built by none other than Inigo Jones, though (Francis) Jones does not seem to mention it, so perhaps it was constructed as part of a landscaped garden. There are, however, no public footpaths through the grounds, it can only be accessed from the main A-road, and you must pay an entrance fee. If this is too much for you, the NWP makes a (lengthy) detour to the N to get to Rhuddlan. The church here (CAPT) was built at the same time as the Edwardian borough. It was though heavily restored in the C19, though there are some medieval monuments inside. (5km via NWP)
f) The NWP now heads N to Rhyl and the 'costa del caravan' to Abergele. There is nothing of any interest on this coast, so an alternative is to take the river path S to St Asaph. This leaves Rhyddlan via the Edwardian castle (CADW), the norman Twthill Mound, and Abbey Farm, site of the former Dominican priory, which housed a famous Holy Rood. This rood may be the so-called Mostyn Christ now in Bangor cathedral. At the end of the river path, you pass the medieval Pont Dafydd, which, in Hubbard's words, 'has been deserted by both highway and river'. Cross Gomorrah on the modern footbridge. To reach St Asaph, you can either walk on the pavement beside the (now quiet) A525, or take the footpath up the hill to the W. The heavily restored cathedral contains some fine C15 choirstalls and an exhibition on the translation of the scriptures into Welsh. Whilst in the town, do not neglect the parish church near the medieval bridge over the river Elwy, which gives the town its Welsh name of Llanelwy. A medieval foundation with some old yews, it has a fine hammerbeam roof, though is rarely open outside services (CPAT). (4km from Rhuddlan)
g) the simplest way to continue is to leave St Asaph on Heol Esgob (Bishop's Lane - no, I don't know why), and follow the lanes and bridlepaths to the famous 'marble' church at Bodelwyddan. It ought to be possible to cross the A55 at the end of the bridleway, but not only is there no pedestrian chicane but there is also a strand of barbed-wire to contend with on the fence on the church side. So, continue on the (noisy) roadside footpath to the bridge, and return to the church if you want to visit it. It is pure C19, though of interest to pilgrims is the marble font which depicts 2 of the founder's nieces with a giant-sized scallop shell. Then continue to St George (CPAT) - a medieval foundation, though with little to show of this apart from some old trees. St George's well (a horse-curing well) is to the E in the grounds of Kinmel Park (no public access). Alternatively, a (very) lengthy detour to the S from St Asaph, and more or less entirely on asphalt, can take in one of the finest of Welsh wells, that of Ffynnon Fair in Wigfair (SJ029710), which appears on the cover of Jones' book. This is on private land, and the Wigfair estate request you contact them before visiting. You can then use the lanes to get to St George. (9km from St Asaph; 17km via Ffynnon Fair)
h) the lane then leads on to Abergele - a clas with medieval remains, CPAT notes the possibility of a former circular churchyard. Continue to the coast (rly stn), where you rejoin the NWP. (4km from St George)
i) this follows the coast to Llanddulais and then turns inland, past the church (CPAT: Victorian, though medieval foundation), to Llysfaen (CPAT: ditto; Ffynnon Gynfran to the N protected horned cattle) and on into Old Colwyn. In spite of the name, there was no medieval church here; this was in Llanelian further S, which retains a largely medieval building including painted panels from the roodloft (CPAT); nearby was the famous cursing well, of which little remains today, though the farmer (perhaps unwisely) still uses the spring. (12km: 5km from Agergele to Llanddulais; 4km to Llysfaen; 3km to Old Colwyn)
j) follow the NWP around the coast to the tiny chapel of St Trillo which has a well actually inside (under the altar) (6km from Old Colwyn)
k) the NWP now continues around the Ormes to the bridge over the river Conwy, very scenic but with little of interest to pilgrims, though it's worth making the short detour up to the church and well of St Tudno on the Gt Orme.
If you want to take a more direct route, turn W at Capel Trillo and head for the parish church (CPAT - see also Wellings) in Llandrillo, over the hill past the ruins of the late-medieval house of Llys Euryn and the iron-age hillfort (later used in early-medieval times as a refuge from marauding Irishmen), and W to the lane to the small parish church at Llangwstenin; there was also a well here. Then take the path opposite the church broadly NW to Gloddaeth Hall, then SW to the medieval church of St Eleri/Hilary, in the village variously called Eglwys-yn-Rhos, Eglwysrhos or Llanrhos. The path SW from the church (not too clear on Landranger) leads past St Mary's well; on the Living Spring website, there is a very interesting account of Ken Davies' work to clear this. Then on via Deganwy Castle to the NWP on the coast. (11km: 1km Capel Trillo to Llandrillo; 2km to Llangwstenin; 4km to Llanrhos; 4km to bridge)
l) cross the river to Conwy with Edward I's castle (CADW) and bastide, still enclosed in the original walls. The bastide was built on the site of the Cistercian abbey which had been there less than a century (the monks were persuaded there was an ever so much better site upstream at what is now the Maenan Abbey Hotel), and the church was converted into the parish church. It has been successively altered ever since, though provides a quiet spot in the centre of this busy town. There is certain to have been a well here somewhere, though it has no doubt long since vanished. (1km)
m) the NWP takes paths along the N slopes of Snowdonia but much better (and considerably shorter) is to stay on the E slopes, and visit the quite extraordinary upland church and well at Llangelynnin. Gregory describes this as 'difficult to find but worth a long and probably arduous search'. To confuse you, the Explorer map marks the 'new' church in the valley as Llangelynin, but the old one is at SH751737. The simplest way to get there is to take the little lane running SW from Conwy and keep on in the same direction until you run out of lane; the church is then in a hollow L. The well (in the corner of the churchyard) was for healing children. See Wellings for some pictures and further information. On my last visit, the church was padlocked, but there is still a monthly service in the summer. Just after leaving Conwy, it's worth making the short detour L to Gyffin church, where more ancient yew trees lead to the conclusion this too is an old foundation, though the dedication is, unusually, to St Benedict. (5km from Conwy)
n) continue in roughly the same direction by taking the (moorland - warning, be properly equipped for this section!) track W and S past Caer Bach hillfort to join the Roman road and the Gwytherin route over the Bwlch y Ddeufaen. (5km from Llangelynnin)

Bwlch y Ddeufaen to Aberdaron and Bardsey/Enlli (121km)

o) continue over the pass and down to join the NWP, which follow past the Aber Falls to the Ogwen river and Llandygai, where the church is partly medieval. For some reason, the NWP finishes at the harbour so, where it turns N along the cycle track, take the lane over the hill, which leads to the cathedral. The cathedral is one of the oldest foundations in Britain and houses the Mostyn Christ, which may be the Holy Rood from Rhuddlan. (25km from the Bwlch)
p) next stop is Caernarfon, or more precisely Llanbeblig, the old parish church of Caernarfon where there was another famous Holy Rood - near the old Roman fort of Segontium to the E. According to Jones, the water at Ffynnon Helen (perpetuating the myth that Constantine's mother Helen came from Segontium), near the river, 'is still taken away in bottles for use as medicine'. Note that the church in the bastide, built to service it, is, like those in Rhuddlan and Conwy (and for that matter, Beaumaris, another Edwardian bastide), dedicated to St Mary; none of those peculiar Welsh dedications for these English outposts.
A simple route is to use the cycle network to Caernarfon, almost a straight line; from Y Felinheli this is a converted railway line along the straits. John & Rees follow an Arts Council of Wales publication in suggesting pilgrims would have headed S from Bangor to Pentir, but I can't see any reason for this. So one alternative is to use the back lanes via Minffordd and Seion to Llanddeiniolen, where there are several large yews in the churchyard; the well is further S by the former Methodist church (Hen Gapel); further SE in a wood is Ffynnon Cegin Arthur. Then use the lane to Y Felinheli and pick up the cycle track. Make the short detour down to Llanfair-ys-gaer church (near Plas Menai), which sits quietly on the Menai Straits gazing over at its sister at Llanidan on the other side; there was a Ffynnon Fair too. From here you could use the lanes and paths to go inland and approach Llanbeblig on the straight track and paths from the NE - this may even be the route of the Roman road. (19km: 7km Bangor to Llanddeiniolen; 5km to Llanfair; 6km to Llanbeblig; 1km to Caernarfon)
q) From Caernarfon to Aberdaron, the medieval route is pretty obvious: straight down the main road. Though the traffic diminishes noticeably past Llanaelhaearn, when the A-road heads off to Pwllheli, this is not very pleasant for walkers. Fortunately there are alternatives that are not that much longer. So, from Caernarfon, take the lane S along the coast until you see the isolated church of Llanfaglan in a field to the L; take the path to it. Now looked after by the illogically named Friends of Friendless Churches, it's very hard to stop oneself coming out with cliches like 'slumbering quietly in the fields'; C18 fittings. (4km from Caernarfon)
r) continue E on this path, and make the short diversion L to Baglan's well, famous for curing warts. The next 2 churches, Llanwnda and Llandwrog, which you can reach by paths and lanes, are both Victorian rebuilds though have old trees in the yards. The former is next to the rly stn, and the latter is in an attractive estate village. See the parish website for details, and of a related trust which organises retreats. (7km: 3km to Llanwnda, 4km to Llandwrog)
s) although there was a small chapel in what is now Glynllifon Park, the next destination is Clynnog Fawr, where Beuno had his clas and one of the most important pilgrim sites on the route. Unfortunately it is poorly served by footpaths, so take the track next to the main road and then back lanes to get there. The large though simply furnished and beautiful church contains an excellent exhibition on the pilgrimage, which is the cause of such a small village having such a large and impressive church. Beuno's chapel is a separate building reached through a passageway from the back of the church, and contains a pilgrimage cross; outside is an ancient sundial stone. Beuno's well is S along the main road (careful: road is extremely busy, especially in summer). It is well preserved but covered in green algae, so does not look too wholesome. (9km from Llandwrog)
t) the next stage, to Llanaelhaearn, is problematic, as the main road is very busy and narrow and there are no footpaths. The only alternative is to clamber up over the hills, which is longer and more energetic, even if there are fine views in good weather. The medieval church of St Aelhaearn has had bits added at various times; inside are some pilgrim graffiti, and an ancient inscribed stone. In the churchyard is another ancient stone as well as the usual ancient yews. The (locked) well is on the edge of the village on the Llithfaen road. (10km from Clynnog)
u) from Llanaelhaearn, the Llyn Pilgrim's Trail is sporadically marked - see www.penllyn.com for some more information, history and pictures of the area; local tourist offices can provide a free leaflet on the trail. The trail heads over the Yr Eifl pass, past the Welsh language centre at Nant Gwrtheyrn, to the next pilgrim church, at Pistyll. Also dedicated to Beuno, as a complete contrast to Clynnog this one is small and intimate, decorated with herbs and rushes, and, like Llanfaglan, slumbering quietly. Nearby was a monastery and pilgrims hostel; the churchyard still contains medicinal herbs thought to date from medieval times. The pool (rather than well) is opposite the church. (8km from Llanaelhaearn)
v) the path continues on SW to the road, which you can take to Nefyn or use paths running parallel to the E. Nefyn's church is now a small maritime museum. There is a Ffynnon Fair in the town centre, though this is not mentioned in Jones. The town was the largest in these parts in medieval times. (3km from Pistyll)
w) there now follow a succession of small churches on or just off the B4417: Edern and Tudweiliog are old foundations but rebuilt in Victorian times; Penllech is a medieval church with an unspoilt Georgian interior. You can either walk along the road, or take the parallel coast path. Alternative between Edern and Tudweiliog is to go via Llandudwen. The last church is Llangwnnadl, traditionally the final resting place before the crossing to Enlli, which had to be extended to cater for all the pilgrims - hence the large church for this tiny hamlet; the site of the shrine of St Gwynhoedl is marked. (21km: 4km to Edern; 3km to Llandudwen; 5km to Tudweiliog; 5km to Penllech; 4km to Llangwnnadl)
x) from Llangwnnadl take the lane SW (OS marks St Merin's Church but there is little to see here) and S to Aberdaron. This boasts the Gegin Fawr ('big kitchen'), a tea shop which is the direct descendant of a pilgrim's hostel. The church is a very old foundation (despite the lack of yews!) with norman remains; for further information see the excellent church website, which includes details of the appeal for a retreat house on Bardsey. The current vicar was previously at Pennant Melangell.
This is the end of the road, but you have still not seen Enlli. If you want to do this before taking the boat over, head for one of the hills to the W, such as Mynydd Anelog or Mynydd Mawr. In the cliff shore S of the latter is another Ffynnon Fair, a wishing well. This one is covered by the sea at high tides, but remains fresh when the tide recedes; the path to it is not easy. There are also the remains of the chapel. (13km: 6km to St Merins; 7km to Aberdaron)
y) you have reached Land's End, but this is not the end of your journey. You still have to cross over the sound. You can take a boat from Pwllheli, but will no doubt prefer to use the traditional route: from Porth Meudwy, a small bay SW from Aberdaron. You can go for a day trip or book accommodation. You need to book beforehand and you will not be able to cross if the weather is bad. See the Bardsey Island Trust website for further information; or contact the tourist office in Pwllheli or Abersoch for more details. Little remains of the Augustinian abbey on the island, which replaced an earlier Celtic monastery; some claim the latter as the oldest monastic site in Britain. There is of course a holy well, yet another Ffynnon Fair, but you won't find too many trees, ancient or otherwise. (2km Aberdaron to Porth Meudwy)

and now? Now you walk back home again . . .